Penelope Chetwode’s sole companion on her ride over the disused mule tracks and goat paths in the wilds of Andalusia in 1961 was the twelve-year-old bay mare, La Marquesa. This treasured animal, borrowed from the Duke of Wellington’s Spanish stables, is the ‘other’ of the two middle-aged ladies of the title. La Marquesa brought her experience of native travel conditions to the expedition, which was first initiated by the author’s fondness for the works of such early British travellers to Spain as George Borrow and Richard Ford. Together the two travellers brought out the very best in their Spanish hosts, whether met on the road, in a country Inn, a cave-house or during Penelope’s frequent attendance at unexpected Church services. The result is a journey, through the region north from Granada, told in a compelling style with warmth and wit, humour and candour that is underlit by an infectious personal fascination for horses, God and Spain.